From the northern tower of the Mackinac
Bridge, the world looks like a photograph taken through a fisheye lens.
The water all about is blue and alive; it twinkles and plays and flashes
little half-moons of white at you like quick bright smiles. The upper and
lower peninsulas of Michigan swell out from either end of the bridge into
vast uneven bodies of green. The tower seems to sway, or that may be your
unsteady legs. From the cream-colored shoulders of the iron pillar, green
cables sweep down and the roadway dangles from them on wires that look like
harp strings. It is 55 stories to the water.
The Mackinac Bridge is a member of America's royal family of big bridges.
It crosses a five-mile stretch of water. In the center of the span stands
a 1.4-mile suspension bridge that is the longest in the world. To students
of the art, the Mackinac vies with a small handful of others for the title
of the world's loveliest bridge, and it is the only big suspension bridge
in North America set in a rural environment, linking Mackinaw City, population
1,000, with St. Ignace, population 2,800.
As big bridges go, the Mackinac carries light traffic: roughly 4.6 million
vehicles last year -a volume that the Golden Gate achieves in about two
months, and New York's George Washington Bridge reaches every three weeks.
But the Mackinac has a different, more important function than simply conveying
people: holding Michigan together.
Almost five decades ago, the people who planned and built the Mackinac
Bridge had tangible goals in mind: They wanted to ease the flow of people
and goods between the two regions; to relieve the isolation of the Upper
Peninsula; and to improve commerce and economic opportunity in all of northern
Michigan. But they also were driven by the more abstract ideal of unifying
socially and culturally a state so strangely divided by geography.
On its 40th anniversary-this month-the bridge has succeeded in some ways
more than in others. Some 92 million vehicles have crossed the structure,
drawing money to and creating jobs for people who live north of the Straits.
Especially in the last decade or so, the bridge has been arguably the most
important element in making the U.P. Michigan's fastest-growing tourist
region.
But in other ways the impact of the bridge is curiously muted. The population
of the Upper Peninsula has hardly changed since the bridge was built, the
rugged landscape is barely altered, and the U.P. still has only one 50-mile
stretch of divided highway-good things, no doubt, but unexpected ones. More
importantly, many residents of the U.P. still perceive themselves as living
in a place detached from Michigan, in a not-quite-affiliated appendage of
Wisconsin, or, more often, in a world unto itself-in, as they themselves
say, the land of the "Yoopers."